The Carhartt WIP Archives

出版者:Rizzoli

作者:Gary Warnett

页数:428

出版时间:2016-10-4

价格:USD 55.00

装帧:Hardcover

isbn号码:9780847844197

具体描述

Back in the eighties, when the Western world was deluged by a wave of blue denim, Carhartt’s brown duck work coats entered the streets as an antidote. Detached from their original raison d’être of attiring hard-working men in mines and on railroad tracks, they arrived in our cities as some sort of new anti-denim. Soon after, and largely due to the efforts of Carhartt’s European distributor Work in Progress, the American workwear classic evolved into the international streetwear icon by which we know it today.

WORK IN PROGRESS: THE CARHARTT WIP ARCHIVES is the first comprehensive publication exploring that remarkable evolution. Edited by Michel Lebugle and Anna Sinofzik, with texts by Gary Warnett, Mark Kessler and Anna Sinofzik, it features more than 350 images including heaps of hitherto unpublished photographs, artworks, as well as ephemera drawn from the company’s own archives and different private collections, providing an unparalleled look into the brand’s bustling universe.

Featuring the extensive story of the brand from its humble beginning to their most popular garments like the Detroit Jacket, Watch Hat, Siberian Jacket, and Cargo Pants, WORK IN PROGRESS is a celebratory, transatlantic stroll through the company’s rich and colorful history. This collection will appeal to both fashion enthusiasts and devotees of American cool.

作者简介

Gary Warnett is a fashion and culture journalist, copywriter, and consultant based in London. Mark Kessler is a writer, translator, and copy editor based in Freiburg. Ian Luna is an author and editor based in New York. Michel Lebugle is an editor and designer based in Düsseldorf. Anna Sinofzik is a culture editor and writer based in Berlin.

Carhartt Work In Progress (Carhartt WIP) forms a division of the American brand Carhartt, one of the first company’s to pioneer workwear in the USA. Founded in Europe in 1989, 100 years after Hamilton Carhartt established his business in Detroit, Michigan, Carhartt WIP has been carefully adapting and modifying Carhartt’s core product characteristics for a different audience of consumers who value refined design and quality while remaining true to Carhartt’s brand origins. Since the beginning, Carhartt WIP have built a strong, organic relationship with unknown, inspiring, provocative and upcoming figures in music and sport, becoming an iconic and well respected brand in underground scenes, from hip- hop to skate, from graffiti to cycling, as well as working with labels such as A.P.C., Neighborhood, Patta, Vans, Junya Watanabe and many more. Starting with one store in London in 1997, Carhartt WIP have meanwhile opened flagship stores in more than 60 locations and can be found in over 2500 stores worldwide. www.carhartt-wip.com

用户评价

这本书的排版布局呈现出一种高度的克制与秩序感，完全符合其档案的基调，但同时又绝不枯燥。设计师在处理大量历史图片和文本信息时，采用了非常现代的网格系统，让复杂的视觉信息得以有序地组织起来，阅读流线清晰流畅，即使是跨页的大幅图片，其边缘处理也干净利落，没有丝毫拖泥带水的感觉。我特别喜欢它对字体选择的用心，那些衬线体和无衬线体的混用，既体现了档案的权威性，又注入了现代的活力，使得整个阅读过程既有沉浸感又保持了现代审美的舒适度。总而言之，这本书更像是一部严肃的学术研究成果，而不是一本随意的商业宣传册。它用近乎苛刻的细节打磨和严谨的内容组织，为所有对品牌历史、耐用设计和文化传承感兴趣的人，提供了一个极其宝贵且极具参考价值的深度文本，读完之后，我对“品质”二字的理解得到了显著的升华。

对于一个长期关注街头文化的人来说，这本书提供了一个极其宝贵的“溯源”机会。它不仅仅展示了哪些单品是“爆款”，更重要的是解释了“为什么”它们会成为经典。书中对于不同年代面料革新的梳理尤为清晰，例如从传统的Duck Canvas到后来的加厚斜纹布的演变，每一种材料的采用都与当时的工作需求和技术发展紧密挂钩。我感觉自己像是上了一堂生动的材料科学和工业设计课，只是它的教材是一本如此精美的书籍。更让我惊喜的是，书中并未回避品牌发展过程中遇到的挑战和转型期的挣扎，这种坦诚的态度反而让整个故事更加立体可信。它让我们理解到，所谓的“经典”，并非一蹴而就，而是无数次对功能、耐用性和舒适性进行迭代优化的结果，这种深入骨髓的“内核价值”才是这本书最值得我们去学习和尊重的部分。

这本书在视觉语言上的运用达到了极高的水准，它巧妙地平衡了历史文献的严肃性和当代设计的前瞻性。你会看到大量的全景照片，展示了早期工作场景的宏大叙事，但同时，它又会聚焦于特写镜头，比如纽扣上的微小划痕、接缝处的双重走线，这些特写处理得极其精妙，仿佛通过放大镜在观察历史的肌理。这种对比和并置的手法，让不同时期的产品在同一个页面上产生了有趣的对话。我特别欣赏它对“文化渗透”过程的描绘，比如如何从铁路工人、建筑工人逐步过渡到滑板手、音乐制作人的衣橱，这种跨越阶层的文化迁移被处理得非常微妙，没有生硬的转折，而是通过几件关键单品和特定的视觉风格变化自然流露出来。它展现的不是一个被设计出来的潮流，而是一个在真实生活场景中自然“野化”出来的风格体系，阅读体验充满了发现的乐趣。

深入内容后，我最大的感受是那种扑面而来的真实感和未经修饰的原始生命力。这本书并没有过多地进行美化或过度解读，而是像一个忠实的记录者，将Carhartt WIP品牌从诞生到逐步演变过程中的每一个关键节点，都以近乎于口述史的方式呈现出来。我特别留意了那些关于早期产品线功能性设计的讨论，比如口袋的加固技术、面料的耐磨性测试等，这些细节的展示，彻底颠覆了我对“工装”仅仅停留在时尚层面的理解，它背后蕴含的是对实用主义的极致追求。书中穿插的那些老一辈工匠的访谈片段，虽然语言朴实无华，却字字珠玑，充满了对质量的执着和对传统工艺的敬畏。这种叙事方式极大地增强了内容的信服力，让人觉得这不仅仅是一本品牌画册，更像是一部关于工业美学与坚韧精神的编年史，让人在翻阅中不断反思当代快消文化中的浮躁。

这本书的装帧设计简直让人爱不释手。封面那厚重的帆布质感，摸上去就有一种历史的沉淀感，配上那标志性的工装橙，既复古又充满了现代的街头气息。侧面看，书脊的处理也极为讲究，每一页纸张的切边都呈现出一种均匀而有力的线条感，这让我立刻联想到那些经过时间洗礼的经典工作服。打开扉页，那种略带粗粝感的纸张触感，仿佛能闻到一丝皮革和机油混合的独特气味，完全将人带入了那个充满汗水与创造力的年代。内页的印刷质量无可挑剔，即便是早期的模糊照片，也被清晰地还原出来，色彩的层次感极其丰富，让人真切感受到那个时代摄影师的匠心。特别是那些关于早期样品和设计草图的呈现方式，立体感极强，简直就像是从历史的抽屉里直接翻出来的珍贵资料，对于任何一个注重细节和工艺的爱好者来说，这本书本身就是一件值得收藏的艺术品，它的物理形态完美地诠释了“档案”二字的重量与价值。

回不到过去的WIP

回不到过去的WIP

回不到过去的WIP

回不到过去的WIP

回不到过去的WIP