During the winter holidays when everyone loves to bake and have plenty

of cookies squirrded away in tins, it s fun to organize an informal gath-

ering to swap cookies and recipes. Participating in such an exchange is a

good way to sample lots of baked things and take home masses of cookies

besides.

As the host or hostess, invite twelve of the best cooks you know to take part

in the exchange. Ask each person to send you his or her three favorite cookie

recipes, then select one recipe from each submission, making sure that many

flavorsand textures are represented. Assign each cook one of his or her own

recipes, and tell everyone to prepare twelve dozen cookies (or more, if you like).

Along with tire load of cookies, remind every baker to bring copies of the recipe

and big containers for holding all the cookies they ll be taking home.

On the day of the swap, clear a large table. Set out packages of plastic bags,

boxes of wax paper, twist ties and cellophane wrap.

Arrange a big pot of coffee or tea or eggnog on a sideboard to accompany

the cookies you ll be sampling.

Ask each baker to set out his or her batch of cookies on the table and parcel

them out into bags or boxes. The table, holding a mountain of cookies,will

remind you of Santa s workshop. And the aroma of spices, butter, chocalate, nuts

and fruit is a festive reminder of the days to come.