The Rough Guide to Lisbon 3 Rough Guide Mini Guides

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INTRODUCTION For me no flowers can match the endlessly varied colours of Lisbon in the sunlight. Fernando Pessoa, The Book of Disquiet (1933). Lisbon (Lisboa), Europe’s most westerly capital, is fast becoming one of the continent’s most vibrant cities. Set on a series of hills overlooking the broad estuary of the Rio Tejo (River Tagus), most visitors are struck by its stunning location and effortless beauty. But its historic significance and faded charm also embrace a modern and forward-thinking lifestyle. Old men still grill sardines on cobbled streets in front of crumbling mansions, but alongside you’ll find cosmopolitan bars and restaurants, many of them influenced by the tastes of African and Brazilian immigrants from Portugal’s former colonies. It’s an immediately likeable place, perhaps gentler than any capital should be; a big city that remains human in pace and scale. Lisbon is officially the European Union’s least expensive capital city, with a cost of living half that of London’s. Once, however, it was one of Europe’s wealthiest cities, controlling a maritime empire that stretched from Brazil in the west to Macau in the east. Many of its grandest buildings were destroyed in the Great Earthquake of 1755, and much of today’s city dates from the late eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. At its heart is the eighteenth-century grid of the lower town, the Baixa (Chapter 1), enclosed by a switchback of hills and linked to surrounding districts by a network of cobbled streets. Its elegant, mosaic-studded squares – filled with cafés, buskers, businesspeople and streetwise dealers – form the hub of central Lisbon’s daily activity, while to the west is Chiado, Lisbon’s most elegant shopping area. East of the Baixa, the leafy shell of the Castelo de São Jorge commands superb views from a craggy hill, with the Alfama district (Chapter 2) sprawling below. This is the oldest, most traditional part of Lisbon, a village within a city, whose steep, whitewashed streets are so narrow that vehicles fear to enter. At night the focus shifts to the Bairro Alto (Chapter 3), the upper town, west of Chiado, and best reached by one of the city’s unique elevadores (funicular railways), which – along with the city’s trams – crank their way up outrageous gradients. The Bairro Alto shelters some of the city’s best restaurants, bars and clubs, while to the west of here (Chapter 4) lie the wealthy districts of Estrela and Lapa, the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga, effectively Portugal’s national art gallery, and the Alcântara docks, a former industrial port area now given over to cafés and nightlife. Heading further west, out along the Tejo, brings you to the historical suburb of Belém (Chapter 5), 6km from the centre, from where many of Portugal’s great maritime explorers set sail to explore the new world. The extraordinary Mosteiro dos Jerónimos is the most impressive of Belém’s maritime monuments, while the turreted Torre de Belém is perhaps Lisbon’s most recognizable landmark. Heading north instead from the Baixa, the tree-lined Avenida da Liberdade (Chapter 6) runs to the city’s central park, Parque Eduardo VII, just beyond which is the outstanding Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian – a museum and cultural complex with an extraordinary rich collection of ancient and modern art. The suburbs of outer Lisbon (Chapter 7) stretch to the north and west, containing – among other sights – the city’s zoo and perhaps its finest palace, the Palácio dos Marquêses de Fronteira. It’s to the east, however, where Lisbon is fast developing its contemporary credentials. Five kilometres east of the capital, the futuristic Parque das Nações (Chapter 8) occupies the former Expo 98 site, and has developed into a hugely popular theme park, with a whole host of restaurants, bars and attractions, including Europe’s largest oceanarium. The individual sights aside, Lisbon’s big attraction is its daily street life, and nothing beats watching the city’s comings and goings from a pavement café over a powerful bica coffee or Portuguese beer. Getting around is half the fun, whether taking one of its ancient trams, riding a ferry across the breezy Rio Tejo, or speeding across town on the metro, whose stations are decorated with adventurous contemporary art. And if you’re fit enough to negotiate its hills, Lisbon is a great place to explore on foot: get off the beaten track and you’ll find atmospheric neighbourhoods sheltering aromatic pastelarias (patisseries), traditional shops, and shuttered houses faced with beautiful azulejo tiles. There’s a buoyant nightlife – some say the most hip in Europe at present – which ranges from the traditional fado clubs of Alfama to the glitzy clubs in Lisbon’s redeveloped docklands. You’re just as likely to hear music from Brazil and Africa as the latest club sounds, while Lisbon’s bars and restaurants stand comparison with the best in any European city. If you want to escape from the city for a while, the beautiful hilltop town of Sintra (Chapter 21), northwest of the city, is a must. Easily reached by train, its lush wooded heights and royal palaces formed Byron’s "glorious Eden" and remain a UNESCO World Heritage site. If you’re interested in Portuguese architecture, there are also the Rococo delights of the Palácio de Queluz or the extraordinary convent at Mafra to the north to visit. The sea is also close at hand, with the lively beach towns of Estoril and Cascais (Chapter 22) just half an hour’s journey away. The best nearby beaches, however, are south of the Tejo (Chapter 23), along the Costa da Caparica, where Atlantic breakers crash on miles of superb dune-backed sands. Further south still lie the more sheltered waters off Sesimbra, a popular summer resort which sits at the edge of the craggy Parque Natural da Arrábida.

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这本书最让人感到气馁的一点是，它对于如何应对里斯本特有的挑战，提供的建议少得可怜。比如，里斯本的坡度是出了名的，它对徒步旅行者应该穿什么鞋子的建议几乎没有，更别提关于如何识别那些专门针对游客的黑车或者过度收费的骗局了。它好像默认所有读者都是不知世故的、轻易就能被满足的“过客”。我原本希望它能更侧重于实用性，比如，详细解释一下 Viva Viagem 卡的使用技巧，或者在高峰期如何避免被旅游团挤爆的观光点。但它给出的信息是如此的笼统，以至于我在实际使用中，很多时候反而需要打开手机搜索更详细的攻略。而且，它的“周边游”推荐部分，简直是敷衍到了家，基本上就是提了辛特拉（Sintra）和卡斯凯什（Cascais），但对于如何高效利用火车时刻表，如何避开辛特拉宫殿群那令人绝望的排队长龙，它完全没有给出任何有价值的、基于亲身体验的见解。说白了，这本书的作者似乎从未真正地在旺季的里斯本生活过，或者说，他/她选择性地忽略了旅行中那些真实而略显尴尬的细节，只留下了粉饰太平的表面光鲜。

这本里斯本指南给我的感觉就像是，嗯，怎么说呢，它更像是一个匆匆忙忙的、只够你应付一下紧急情况的生存手册，而不是一本真正能带你深入这座城市灵魂的向导。我带着极高的期望购买它，希望能找到那种老派的、深入骨髓的葡萄牙风情，那些隐藏在狭窄小巷深处的、只有本地人才知道的“塔斯卡”（小酒馆），或者能够指引我找到那些真正能让人为之驻足品味的手工艺品店。然而，这本书给我的却是冰冷、刻板的清单式信息。你知道吗，那些推荐的餐厅，感觉像是从十年前的某个旅游杂志上直接复制粘贴下来的，我已经能想象出那排队等候的游客面孔了——完全没有惊喜感，更别提什么“地道体验”了。它的地图标记得倒是清晰，但那种粗略的分类方式，比如“必看景点”和“其他景点”，让人觉得创作者根本没花心思去理解里斯本这座城市的层次感。想了解阿尔法玛（Alfama）的音乐历史？想知道哪个角落的电车看日落最美？抱歉，这本书里只有简短的几行字，像是在敷衍一个小学生作业。我更希望它能花点笔墨去描绘那种清晨阳光洒在圣乔治城堡（Castelo de São Jorge）石墙上的光影变化，或者描述一下在贝伦（Belém）品尝蛋挞时，那种酥皮碎裂后香甜奶油在口中融化的微妙感受。这本书，坦白地说，更适合那种只想打卡拍照、急匆匆赶行程的游客，对真正想沉浸式体验里斯本生活的人来说，它提供的价值实在太有限了，几乎是聊胜于无。

我必须承认，如果你是那种计划在里斯本停留不到48小时，并且把所有时间都精确到分钟的“效率至上型”旅行者，这本书或许能勉强帮你导航一下主要的交通线路和几个地标建筑。但对于我这种喜欢迷失在城市里，享受那种“不期而遇”的惊喜的人来说，它简直是一本反向指南。它的结构组织非常僵硬，每一个部分都是标准化的模板，完全没有考虑到里斯本这座城市天然的、蜿蜒曲折的性格。比如，它在介绍“美食”时，竟然把甜点和主菜放在了完全不相关的两个章节，完全打乱了地道用餐的体验流程——在里斯本，晚餐前的开胃酒和餐后浓缩咖啡，和主菜一样重要，它们共同构成了一个完整的社交仪式，但这本指南里看不到这种对生活节奏的理解。而且，它的语言风格极其平铺直叙，缺乏任何能调动读者想象力的描述性词汇。阅读它，就像在看一份政府公告，而不是一份充满激情的旅行伙伴的絮语。我需要那种能让我提前感受到西洛科风吹过塔霍河（Tagus River）的那种燥热，能让我提前闻到街角面包店里酵母和肉桂混合的香气的东西。这本书里，只有冷冰冰的地址和营业时间，完全剥夺了旅行本该有的感官体验。

拿到这本所谓的“袖珍指南”时，我就隐约感到一丝不妙，它的装帧设计充满了廉价感，纸张的质地摸起来就很粗糙，翻页的时候总感觉下一秒就要散架了。内容上更是如此，它似乎完全忽略了里斯本作为一座充满历史厚重感和当代艺术活力的双重城市。对于历史爱好者来说，这本书简直是灾难。它对大航海时代的辉煌一带而过，对卡尔莫修道院（Carmo Convent）的地震遗址的描述，只是简单地标注了“遗址，值得一看”，完全没有触及到那种震撼人心的历史断裂感和对人类命运的反思。更让人抓狂的是，它在推荐文化体验方面，简直是敷衍到了极致。比如，提到法多（Fado）音乐，它只是列出了几个名字，却完全没有解释法多在葡萄牙文化中的核心地位，更没有区分出那些真正用心传承的老派演唱者和那些迎合游客的商业化表演。我试图从中寻找一些关于葡萄牙当代艺术场景的线索，比如圣安东尼奥（Santo António）地区的新兴画廊，或者奥利瓦伊斯（Olivais）那些被改造的工业空间，但一无所获。这本小册子里的所有信息，都停留在游客观光的最浅层，仿佛作者认为所有来里斯本的人，都只对购买纪念品和乘坐观光电车感兴趣。它没有提供任何深度阅读的建议，没有推荐任何可以让人在雨天窝在咖啡馆里消磨一下午的文学作品，总之，它缺乏一种知识分子的温度和对地方文化的热爱。

从版本更新的角度来看，这本指南也暴露出了它滞后的本质。里斯本是一个变化极快的城市，新的酒吧、概念店、甚至整个街区都在不断地被重新定义和改造。我翻阅这本书，发现它推荐的几个被大肆宣传的“新潮”地点，实际上在我到达的那个月就已经关门大吉或者转手给了别人。这说明作者在信息收集上明显缺乏及时的跟进和本地资源的有效利用。一个好的旅行指南，应该像一个活着的有机体，随着城市的脉搏而呼吸和调整。然而，这本《粗略指南迷你指南》给我的感觉，就像是一具被冷冻起来的标本，展示着几年前的里斯本的某个快照。对于那些依赖指南书来规划行程的旅行者来说，这种信息的过时是极其致命的，它可能直接导致你错过当下的精彩，或者白跑一趟去了一个早已不复存在的地方。我更倾向于相信那些由本地博主或小型独立出版社出版的、更新频率更高、视角更具地方性的资源，至少它们展现了对这座城市变迁的关注和尊重。这本指南，最终被我束之高阁，成了旅行箱里一个沉甸甸的、但几乎没有提供实质帮助的负累。