Barbarian Days 2024 pdf epub mobi 電子書 下載


Barbarian Days

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A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer

Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves.

Finnegan shares stories of life in a whitesonly gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a Hawaiian surfer. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. He and a buddy, their knapsacks crammed with reef charts, bushwhack through Polynesia. They discover, while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji, one of the world’s greatest waves. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he becomes an improbable anthropologist: unpicking the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity.

Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little understood art. Today, Finnegan’s surfing life is undiminished. Frantically juggling work and family, he chases his enchantment through Long Island ice storms and obscure corners of Madagascar.

Barbarian Days 2024 pdf epub mobi 電子書 下載

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發表於2024-06-18

Barbarian Days 2024 pdf epub mobi 電子書 下載

Barbarian Days 2024 pdf epub mobi 電子書 下載

Barbarian Days 2024 pdf epub mobi 電子書 下載



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出版者:Penguin Press
作者:William Finnegan
出品人:
頁數:464
譯者:
出版時間:2015-7-21
價格:USD 27.95
裝幀:Hardcover
isbn號碼:9781594203473
叢書系列:

圖書標籤: 傳記  William  Finnegan  普利策  文學  迴憶錄  2016普利策  美國   


Barbarian Days 2024 pdf epub mobi 電子書 下載
想要找書就要到 本本書屋
立刻按 ctrl+D收藏本頁
你會得到大驚喜!!

Barbarian Days pdf epub mobi 用戶評價

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If a big surfing fan, good to hv a look.

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Not an easy read, but a good memoir to know a little about 60s hippie culture.

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Not an easy read, but a good memoir to know a little about 60s hippie culture.

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Not an easy read, but a good memoir to know a little about 60s hippie culture.

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斷斷續續花瞭幾個月纔讀完這本書,可能是我讀過最好的傳記瞭。從加州,夏威夷,澳大利亞一路到南非,葡萄牙,作者帶著衝浪闆遊遍瞭大半個世界。去不同的地方,認識奇特的人,每一朵浪花都是一個故事。

Barbarian Days 2024 pdf epub mobi 電子書 下載


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