Fed up with suburban teenage life, Jaimal Yogis ran off to Hawaii with little more than a copy of Hermann Hesse's Siddhartha and enough cash for a surfboard. His journey is a coming-of-age saga that takes him from communes to monasteries and the icy New York shore. Equal parts spiritual memoir and surfer's tale, this is a chronicle of finding meditative focus in the barrel of a wave and eternal truth in the great salty blue.
"A journalist, photographer, surfer and Zen Master, Yogis began the life of a roving seeker his junior year of high school, when he ran away from his Sacramento, Calif. home to learn how to surf in Hawaii. His subsequent travels include a handful of prime surfing spots, but Yogis's more arresting journey is spiritual, taking him to monasteries in France and Berkley, Calif., and deep into the living tradition of Zen Buddhism. Captured here in short chapters and wonderful, visual prose, Yogis's coming-of-age odyssey also takes readers into the culture of indigenous Hawaiians, who believe the gods were surfers. Yogis's long-time surfing mentor Rom provides insight into the science of surfing, ocean swells, the bathymetry of the continental shelf, deep water canyons and sea mounts. Even land lovers will find Yogis's lessons resonant and entertaining, but surfers will find this a quick, surprisingly deep tribute to the quest for surf and serenity." - Publisher's Weekly"
有記者,攝影師,衝浪者和禪師,修行者開始瞭一個巡迴搜索他的高中生活,當他跑到離他薩剋拉門托,加利福尼亞州傢中瞭解如何在夏威夷衝浪三年級。他隨後的行程包括少數素衝浪點,但修行者的逮捕旅程更是精神,把他在法國和伯剋利加州寺院,進入禪宗的活的傳統和深厚。簡短的章節中捕獲和精彩,視覺散文這裏,修行者的到來,年齡奧德賽還考慮到瞭夏威夷土著人,誰相信神是衝浪文化的讀者。修行者的長期指導ROM提供上網衝浪到科學洞察力,海洋膨脹,對大陸架水深,峽榖和海洋深層水的坐騎。即使土地愛好者會發現修行者的教訓共振和娛樂性,但瀏覽者會覺得這是一個快速,令人驚訝的深切敬意的衝浪和寜靜的追求。" 齣版商周刊
發表於2024-11-24
Saltwater Buddha 2024 pdf epub mobi 電子書 下載
圖書標籤: freediving
Saltwater Buddha 2024 pdf epub mobi 電子書 下載